Centuries ago, when the first person figured out that cotton could be spun and turned into thread and then made into fabric, the process of “weaving” was discovered. Fabric weave, simply put, is when two distinct sets of yarn or thread are interlaced together at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. These two threads are called warp, which are the vertical threads, and weft, which are the horizontal threads, and are usually woven together on a loom. How these threads are woven together gives rise to the characteristics of the cloth. The three most common weaves that are found in the majority of woven fabrics are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. The way threads are woven together can determine the structure of the fabric, as well as how durable it will be.
Each of the three main weaves has its strengths, drawbacks, and features that make it ideal for certain uses and situations. In this blog, we will highlight how each weave is created, common fabrics created by that weave, and some of its characteristics.
Let’s start by discussing the most common type of weave, the plain weave.
Plain and Simple: The Whole Truth of the Plain Weave
The plain weave, also known as the calico, tabby, or basic weave, is defined as a woven fabric in which its threads all run in a simple perpendicular weaving pattern. For visual reference, imagine a checkerboard pattern, like that on a woven basket, where straight interlacing thread goes under and over each other at right angles. Plain weave is most often used for items that need more structure and a heavy look, such as button-up shirts, suits, blazers, and trench coats.
Plain weave material is often considered very durable as it maintains its shape after many washes and resists pilling. It is structured and not very stretchy, however, it can crease easily and will hold wrinkles. This means your item will need frequent ironing to look smooth. Plain weave fabric is easy to sew, since it doesn’t stretch much, and will not gather or pucker during the process.
It can often be coarse since it is made with strands that aren’t as soft as knits, but both sides of the fabric will look identical because of the simple crisscross pattern of the plain weave. This means there is no “wrong” side of the fabric.
Popular examples of plain weave fabrics include flannel, chiffon, organdy, and muslin.
An example of a clothing item using fabric produced from a plain weave would be the Columbia Boulder Ridge Long Sleeve Flannel Shirt. The shirt’s double-brushed cotton flannel fabric is rich, soft, and durable. A multifunctional pocket at the left chest stashes small items.
The second weave is often confused as a fabric pattern, but it is in fact one of the three original fabric weaves. We’re talking about twill.
The Twilling World of Fabric Weaves: The Twill Weave
The twill weave is often known for its ribbed, diagonal pattern. When twill is woven together, the weft is woven over one or more warp threads and then under one or more warp threads. Twill weaves are categorized into fractions to denote how they were woven. For example, a twill labeled as 3/1 means that the weft is woven over three warp threads and under one warp thread.
Twill’s diagonal pattern creates a stronger and thicker fabric that hides soil better than a plain weave. Its higher thread count means the fabric is opaque, thick, and durable and has a distinct, often darker-colored front side with a lighter backside. Because of its durability, a fabric made out of a twill weave can withstand a lot of wear and tear. The thickness of the material means it won’t wrinkle or crease easily, but it will drape well.
Popular examples of twill weave fabrics include denim, chinos, and tweed.
An example of a clothing item using fabric produced from a twill weave would be the Vertx Women’s Kesher Ops Pants. Until now, women have been asked to choose between stylish everyday garments and functional CCW-compatible clothing. With the Vertx Kesher OPS pants, women no longer have to sacrifice fashion or function. These covert tactical pants are designed with a contemporary moto style that seamlessly blends into any environment. The fabric is made from Coolmax® denim to keep body temperature regulated and has a two-way stretch for ease of movement.
These tactical jeans also come packed with safety features including rear pickpocketing prevention wallet traps and hidden E&E pocketing. Combine all that with deep, functional hand pockets, a contoured waistband, and concealed-carry hidden yoke pockets, these tactical denim jeans provide ample coverage and comfort during any level of activity, in any CCW position.
The final of the three main fabric weaves is satin. Wait, isn’t that a fabric material? Read the next section to find out why it is not.
The Truth About Satin: Weave or Material?
Many people often confuse satin for a type of fabric material, but it is not. Satin refers to the weave and not the textile. Satin features four or more weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, or vice versa. Most fabric characterized as satin has a soft, shiny finish on one side and a duller surface on the other, which is a result of the weaving technique. Satin is woven from long, continuous fibers and is defined by the length of the filament, not the fiber used. Originally made using silk threads, modern satin can also be made from rayon or polyester, both of which can be manufactured to form long filaments.
The long filament fibers woven in satin are done in a very taut fashion, which makes the material as strong as many plain weave fabrics. It doesn’t wrinkle as easily as other fabrics, but it will snag easily and can be difficult to work with because it is so soft and slippery and can be unforgiving in the sewing process. Satin drapes beautifully due to the concentration of fibers and the pliability of the fabric.
Popular examples of satin weave fabric are brocade and duchess satin. It is often used for dresses, upholstery, bed sheets, and footwear.
Weaving it All Together: Final Thoughts
Fabric weaves are everywhere, and you are probably wearing a combination of two, or maybe all three, of the most popular weave styles right now as you read this blog. The more one understands how a weave is made, the more one is able to understand why certain fabrics are chosen for certain types of clothing applications. Each weave serves a purpose. In conclusion, we hope you can walk away from this blog feeling more confident about the pros and cons of each weave type and understand the value it bestows upon the fabric it creates.